Society generally still frowns at men wearing jewelry. The wristwatch, however, is one piece of “jewelry” men are allowed to wear without anyone batting an eyelid.

An expression of style and personality, and sometimes viewed as an indicator of net worth, it is still an accessory and must be worn appropriately.

There are several things to consider when picking a watch to wear with your attire. The most important, though, is to realize that your watch is an accessory and should be worn as such. When dressing formally, you wear a formal watch; when dressing casually, you wear a casual watch. When dressing somewhere in between, something in between likewise would work.

The best way to explain this would be an analogy given in an article published in a magazine many years ago. It painted the picture of a man in a tuxedo at a black-tie event, oozing such poise and style that he was the textbook image of what a perfect gentleman should look like.

He casually flicks his wrist to check the time… and exposed under the cuff of his shirt is one of those calculator wristwatches with a rubber strap… sure, you get the picture.

So, what is a formal watch, what is a casual watch, and what is an in-between watch — and how are they to be matched to our attire?

There are different ways of categorizing watches, but for the average man who is not interested in getting into the nitty-gritty of this, a formal watch will first and foremost be an analogue watch. The extreme of the formal watch will be a simple 2 hands (hour and minute) watch or 3 hands (hour, minute, and seconds) watch… no complications. A slim leather strap, black in color, and a slim case.

Another extreme for the casual watch will be a digital watch—an electronic watch that shows the time in the form of numbers on an LED or LCD screen with a rubber/silicone strap. Even when these digital watches are combined with an analogue watch, they are still considered casual.

Please note that smartwatches and fitness trackers, even when they come with metal bands, are still considered casual.

For this write-up, we will only be looking at the five most widely recognized dress codes:

Black-Tie

A formal dress code, usually for sophisticated evening events. A black or midnight blue tuxedo, white shirt, and black bow tie is the standard here. These days, though, we find this dress code being called for daytime events as well. Since a tux is traditionally evening wear, a black suit would be more appropriate in this case.

For the black-tie, a proper formal watch—a simple 2 or 3 hands watch with no complication, with a slim leather strap (black) and a slim case—would be ideal.

Business Formal

In layman’s terms, referred to as formal office wear, this is a dark-colored (black, dark grey, or dark blue) suit complete with a tie. Traditionally worn with a white or light-colored shirt… imagine the British Prime Minister at the G7 Conference—this is the ideal. These days, though, striped shirts have become accepted.

The ideal watch here would still be a slim case watch. With your hands by your side, the cuff of your shirt can easily cover your watch. Unlike with the black-tie dress code, here complications are welcome. The band should preferably be leather, but a metal band is also acceptable.

If a metal band is chosen, the color of the metal band should complement your attire. The silver or black band will do a great job complementing a black, navy, or grey suit without being overpowered.

The same applies when we go the traditional route, wearing an agbada or a long-sleeved Buba and Sokoto complete with a cap. Earth colors like brown, beige, and different shades of tan can be paired with the gold-colored metal band. Dark colors should be paired with the silver or black-colored band.

With other colors like teal, lighter shades of blue and green, wine, and so on, use your judgment but try to keep things simple. If in doubt, the silver-colored band is the safer option.

When wearing white, both silver and gold metal bands work well, but be more mindful of the shoes being worn.

Business Casual

Still intended to give a professional and businesslike impression, business casual is less formal than traditional business wear. It allows you to showcase your style and personality by accessorizing and is less rigid where colors are concerned.

A tie is optional, a jacket/blazer may be substituted for a sweater/cardigan, and less formal colors like brown and lighter shades of blue can be incorporated.

Here, watches with complications are acceptable. A full-fledged multi-function or chronograph would do well. A brown leather strap watch would also be acceptable if wearing brown or earth-colored clothing.

If you choose a metal band, remember steel and black bands go with dark colors, and a gold band ideally should only be worn with brown and earth colors.

From the traditional angle, a business casual would be a short-sleeved Buba and Sokoto, and the same rules of color will apply.

Smart Casual

As the name suggests, this dress code is a “smart” casual look—a more polished version of casual wear. Instead of ripped jeans and T-shirts, smart casual will include a jacket over dark jeans and a plain T-shirt with little or no lettering or images.

There are a few restrictions on colors, but discretion and decorum should still apply.

Watch options here range from formal to casual. You could wear a classic slim case, 2 hands black leather strap, or a rubber/silicone strap chronograph. Colored strap watches, including unconventional colors like yellow, are allowed if they complement and do not overpower your attire.

Casual

The most relaxed of dress codes, where practically anything goes—though it should always be neat and presentable. A smart pair of jeans, a T-shirt, and sneakers best describe this look.

Any watch type fits here, from formal watches to the most casual digital watches.

NOTE:

When matching your watch to your attire, it is acceptable to wear a more formal watch on a less formal outfit—but not the other way around.